How To: Set a Fence Post
When we moved into our home, which sits on approximately 4 acres, the front yard was enclosed with chain-link fencing and was completely landscaped with rock. The rock was beautiful, but not ideal for our two high energy dogs that love to run, and I am not a fan of chain-link fences. We knew immediately we would want to do some major upgrades to the yard as soon as possible. First, we hired a landscaper to clear some trees on additional land next to the current fenced area and the rock that was currently covering the yard. The plan initially was to hire someone to build the fence we wanted, a wood framed utility panel see-through fence; but when the first quote was over $20,000, the plan quickly changed. I’m all for spending money on high priority or technical jobs, but I knew this was something I could tackle with a little YouTube University and a whole lot of patience.
This fence has taken me all summer to complete, but I am thrilled with the finished product! As I’m putting on the finishing touches, I want to break down the processes and tools I used in full so you have a step-by-step guide on building the most beautiful panel fence possible. Come along as I explain each step of our fence build and break down the final cost.
Start Here
Before a hole is ever dug, the perimeter of the fence must be determined. To begin, I used garden stakes I had laying around and some string we had used for a previous project. The stakes were set about every 20 feet or so to mark the general area of where the fence would be. Things to consider: alignment with your home or other structures, distance to trees or large rocks, and cables or sewage lines.
Once we had the general area marked out, measurements were taken of each side to ensure there would be an even number of panels (no random short panels). As we knew we wanted 8-foot panels between 3 ½” posts, with a bit of math (thank you Honey!), and we were able to ensure each side would produce even panels.
Now a line would be stung tightly as a guide for setting the posts in a straight line. I bought 1”x2”x24” stakes to drive into the ground just outside of each corner. A nail was attached and the string was tied to the nail to provide the perfect plumb line. At this point we were getting an exciting visual of how the finished product would look! I was finally ready to get to the real work.
Learning the Process
The great thing about projects like this, is that once you have a process for each step, you just rinse and repeat. Here’s my process for setting my 8 foot, 4x4 pressure treated fence posts.
1) Determine position of desired post hole for appropriate spacing
2) Drill post hole to 2-foot depth (more on this depth later)
3) Level post in both directions along with positioning to plumb line
4) Fill concrete
Spacing
Before you dig your hole, you will want to be sure you are digging where the post will be against the plumb line and in perfect spacing away from the posts on either side. I found it easiest go post by post, using the next post as the spacer between the one I just set. Because the posts were 8 feet long and that was how long I wanted my panels, it was the most convenient solution. You can also cut a 2x4 to whatever length you are needing and use that as your spacer. Using a bright spray paint, mark the spot, then start digging!
Pro Tip:
As our entire yard is fairly sloped, it was important I made sure the spacer board was level before marking the spot. If you mark your position when the board is sloped, the spacing will not be correct for the level fence.
Digging
If you’ve done any research previously, you know post hole digging is not a fun job, no matter what tools you have. For this fence, I had an electric auger I had found on Facebook Marketplace. This was the perfect tool for me as I could control it solo, but use the least muscle power. Whether you’re using an auger or post hole digger, the process will remain the same. The important thing is that you are digging your holes deep enough.
Our average fence height would be 56” (some places would be higher due to the slope in the yard), so I knew we needed 8 foot posts. The general rule for post hole depth is 1/3 the height of your fence. Because our yard is very sandy and we have a harsh winter, I was happy with a little extra depth.
Calculation: Depth = 56” fence height/ 3 = 18.7” + sand/frost line consideration = 24”
Luckily the drill bit that came with the auger was 24” long and 8” wide. Placing the bit directly on the marked spot, I would begin to dig slowly, pulling the auger out every few inches to clear the dirt. Be prepared, rocks and roots will become your worst enemy; but your fence is only as strong as the foundation you set, so be sure to dig out any rocks or around any roots you may encounter. Wider holes are ok if needed, just be sure to use enough concrete to fill them completely.
Once the hole is dug, be sure to remove any loose dirt and add a thin layer of gravel for water drainage. Pack the gravel lightly to ensure a level surface at the bottom of the hole.
Once the hole is dug, be sure to remove any loose dirt and add a thin layer of gravel for water drainage. Pack the gravel lightly to ensure a level surface at the bottom of the hole.
Leveling
Finally ready to set the post! Begin by placing two levels on the post, one on either side, and clamping them in place. This will ensure the post is perpendicular to the ground forward-backward and side-to-side. Once level, check the position of the post relative to the plumb line. The post should be lightly touching the line and leveled on each side before pouring concrete.
If you have a partner helping, they can hold this position as the concrete is poured. If working solo, drill a shorter board into each side of the bottom of the post to act as stabilizers as you pour the concrete. This allows you to hold the post is the best position while using your hands for pouring.
Pouring
Once you’ve established the post hole position, dug the hole, and leveled the post, it is time to pour the concrete. To keep the process as clean and simple as possible, I suggest Fast Set concrete. This allows the concrete to be poured directly into the hole without the need for messy mixing.
With the post in the hole, fill the hole 1/3 with water, then pour the first bag directly in. I used the end of an old rake to make sure the concrete was settled, then rechecked the levels. At this point, small adjustments to position can be made to ensure the post is in the correct position. Once confident, repeat the process again with water and concrete. For our size holes, two bags were the perfect amount to fill the hole. After packing the concrete again, cover with loose dirt.
Even though post setting is not extremely difficult, it can be overwhelming knowing all the proper steps to follow, making sure the post will be stable and long lasting. It would be the worst to complete a beautiful fence, then find posts start shifting and leaning as time goes on. I hope this tutorial has provided a succinct, easy to follow guide to start the fence of your dreams. In the next fence blog, I will cover how to create the wood frame. Be sure to follow along!
