Framing a Metal Panel Fence with Precision

If you haven’t yet, be sure to check out the PREVIOUS POST about setting fence posts to get you started on the right “footing”. Once the posts are set, its time to start building the frame that will support the metal paneling for your fence. There are countless ways to design the frame, depending on how complex you want the finished product to look. As our fence is the border for the front yard, I wanted a very finished, almost decorative look.

*There are three steps to framing the fence.*

1)     The toe-kick
2)     The panel supports
3)     Decorative finishing

*Step One*

The toe-kick is the foundation the rest of the frame will be built upon. It is important it is level and sturdy. I used a 2x6 in order to give the fence a framed look. The dogs attempting to dig under the fence was also a concern, so this was the perfect barrier to deter them.
I began by measuring the exact distance from post to post in order to get a perfect fit. As hard as you try to get the posts perfectly spaced, there will be small discrepancies. Even a half inch gap between the post and the toe-kick board can ruin the look of the fence. I used a laser measure to obtain the exact measurement, then cut each board to length.

In order to the attached the board to the post, two holes on each end of the 2x6 were pre-drilled with a Kreg jig, then screwed into the post with deck screws. By attaching one end at a time, I could ensure the board was perfectly level in each direction.

*Step Two*

There are two tactics for holding the metal panel in place inside the wood frame. You can sandwich the panel between two separate boards, or you can cut a channel in one board for the panel to sit in. In order to save on time and lumber costs, I chose the channel method.
I used 2x4s to frame all 4 sides of the panel for maximum support. A DADO blade (purchased from Amazon and used in my table saw) was used to create the channel in the middle of the 2x4. I used the same technique for measuring the distance from post to post for the bottom and top portions of the frame, and also cut the sides to match the height of my desired metal panel (our panels were exactly 48” tall; the channels were ½” deep resulting in the height of my side pieces being 47”).

Once all the boards were cut to length and the channel was created, the bottom piece was screwed into the toe kick, and the side portions were screwed into the posts. The frame was now ready to install the metal panel by sliding it into the pre-made channels. Once the panel was in place, the top board was attached completing the frame and creating a nearly finished, fully functional fence panel.

*Step Three*

With metal panel in place, the fence is fully functional; but I wanted to make some finishing touches for looks, and also to protect the wood for longevity. Because the toe-kick was the only additional board besides the frame, each panel looked unfinished to me. In order to create balance and depth, I added a 1x1 1/2 framing board just underneath the top portion of the frame. This added the perfect touch to make the fence look professionally designed.
Once the wood had sufficient time to dry, I applied a semi-transparent outdoor stain. The darker color really brought to wood to life and will help protect from our harsh winters and direct sun during the summer.

I also decided to use post toppers to protect the cut 4x4s and add a touch of light to the fence. I used an alternating pattern of flat black toppers and solar lighted toppers. The solar tops were purchased from Amazon for a great price and they were very easy to install.

Framing a Metal Panel Fence

There are three steps to framing the fence.

Step One

Step Two

Step Three

Conclusion

Here and Everywhere

Travel

Home Improvements